Your washer fills and agitates but won't spin, or it fills and tries to spin but bounces the load instead of extracting water. The result is the same: soaking wet clothes that take an extra hour to dry. Here are the 5 most common causes, in order of likelihood.
The most common "not spinning" issue isn't a mechanical failure — it's a load that's bunched up on one side. The spin sensor detects the imbalance and switches to a re-balancing cycle, or simply won't engage spin.
Fix: Pause the cycle. Open the door. Redistribute the load evenly around the drum. Restart. If it's a single heavy item (comforter, towel), add a few small items to balance it.
Prevention: Don't overload. For front-loaders, the load should fill the drum to about 2/3 full. For top-loaders, leave enough room to fit your hand between the load and the top of the drum.
The washer won't spin if it thinks the lid is open. The lid switch (top-load) or door lock (front-load) is a safety interlock. If it's faulty, the washer won't engage the spin cycle even when the lid is closed.
Test: Top-load: Press the lid switch while the washer is in the spin cycle. If it suddenly spins, the switch is bad. Front-load: Listen for the door lock click. If the lock doesn't engage, the door lock assembly is failing.
Fix: Replace the lid switch ($15-30) or door lock assembly ($30-60). Both are straightforward DIY repairs.
Most washers use a drive belt to transfer motor power to the drum. If the belt breaks or slips off the pulley, the motor runs but the drum doesn't spin.
Test: Unplug the washer. Remove the rear panel. Look at the belt. If it's broken, loose, or off the pulley, that's your problem.
Fix: Replace the belt ($15-30). Route it exactly as the original was. Most washers have a routing diagram on the motor or the frame.
Some washers (especially older top-loaders) use a motor coupling — a small plastic or rubber piece that connects the motor shaft to the transmission. It breaks from wear. In direct-drive washers, the motor itself may fail.
Test: Check the coupling for cracks or wear. For the motor, unplug the motor and check for continuity. An open circuit means the motor is burned out.
Fix: Replace the coupling ($10-20) or the motor ($80-200). Motor replacement is a more involved job — you'll need to disconnect the transmission and brake assembly.
The control board sends the signal to the motor to spin. If the board is faulty, it may send the signal for agitation but not for spin. This is less common but does happen, especially after a power surge.
Test: If the belt, lid switch, and motor all test good, the control board is the likely culprit. A tech can test the board's output signal at the motor connector.
Fix: Replace the control board ($80-200). Match the model number exactly.