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🔧 Appliance Repair Procedures

Step-by-step repair guides with safety warnings, part costs, and common failure points. 30 procedures across 7 appliance types.

🔧 Dishwasher (3 repairs)

Dishwasher Not Draining

high Water remains at bottom of dishwasher after cycle completes. Dishes may be clean but standing water is present.
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Dishwasher Not Cleaning Dishes

medium Dishes come out dirty, spotted, or with food residue after complete cycle.
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Dishwasher Not Draining

medium Dishwasher completes the cycle but leaves standing water in the bottom of the tub.
⚠️ UNPLUG THE DISHWASHER. Check the area under the dishwasher for water damage before removing panels.
View 6 steps
  1. 1. Check the drain hose for kinks or clogs. The hose should be routed without sharp bends and should not be submerged in the standpipe (create an air gap) → Hose straight, end above water level in standpipe
  2. 2. Clean the drain pump filter. Most dishwashers have a filter at the bottom of the tub. Remove it, clear debris (food particles, glass, bones), and rinse it under running water → Filter clean, no debris
  3. 3. Check the drain pump impeller. Remove the pump (usually 2-3 screws) and check the impeller. If it's broken or the shaft is sheared, the pump won't move water. Replace the pump → Impeller intact, spins freely
  4. 4. Check the air gap (if equipped). The air gap is a small white cylinder on the countertop or sink. Remove the cap and clear any debris. A blocked air gap prevents drainage → Air gap clear, water flows
  5. 5. If the pump and filter are clean but water remains, check the check valve (one-way valve) in the drain line. A stuck check valve prevents water from flowing to the drain. Remove and inspect → Check valve opens and closes freely
  6. 6. If all above check out, the drain pump motor may be failing. Listen for the pump running during the drain cycle. If silent, the motor isn't receiving power or is seized. Measure 120V at the pump during drain. No voltage = control board issue → Pump runs, water drains
Common parts: Drain pump ($30-60) · Drain filter ($5-15) · Air gap ($10-20) · Drain hose ($10-20)

🔧 Dryer (6 repairs)

Dryer Not Heating (Electric)

high Dryer runs and tumbles but produces no heat, leaving clothes wet after full cycle.
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Dryer Not Spinning

high Dryer motor hums, timer runs, or lights come on, but drum won't turn.
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Dryer Not Drying / Long Dry Times

medium Dryer runs and heats but takes multiple cycles to dry clothes. Clothes still damp after normal cycle.
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Dryer Squeaking or Thumping

medium Loud squeaking, thumping, or rumbling noise while dryer is running.
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Dryer Not Heating (Electric)

high Electric dryer tumbles clothes but doesn't produce heat. Clothes come out wet and cold.
⚠️ UNPLUG THE DRYER AND VERIFY 240V IS PRESENT AT THE OUTLET. Electric dryers require 240V — a missing leg will cause no heat. NEVER work on a dryer with power connected.
View 6 steps
  1. 1. Verify 240V at the dryer outlet. Use a multimeter to measure between the two hot terminals (should be 240V) and between each hot and neutral (should be 120V each). If you only have 120V, a breaker or wiring issue is the cause → 240V between hots, 120V hot-to-neutral
  2. 2. Access the heating element (at the back of the drum, behind the rear panel). Disconnect the element wires and measure resistance. Should read 10-40Ω. Infinite (OL) = open circuit, replace element → 10-40Ω across element
  3. 3. If the element tests good, check the thermal fuse (one-way thermal cutoff). It's a small metal disc on the blower housing. Should read 0Ω (continuity). Open = blown. DO NOT just replace it — find the overheating cause first → 0Ω — fuse intact
  4. 4. If the thermal fuse is blown, clean the entire vent path from the dryer lint trap to the outside vent. A blocked vent is the #1 cause of blown thermal fuses. Then replace the fuse → Vent clear, new fuse installed
  5. 5. Check the high-limit thermostat (on the blower housing). Should read continuity at room temperature. Open = replace. This thermostat shuts off heat if the air temperature exceeds ~230°F → Continuity at room temperature
  6. 6. If all components test good, check for 240V at the element terminals during a heat cycle (with the door open and a cycle running). No 240V = control board relay issue or wiring problem → 240V AC at element during heat cycle
Common parts: Heating element ($20-40) · Thermal fuse ($5-10) · High-limit thermostat ($10-20) · Vent duct (rigid) ($15-30 per 5ft)

Dryer Not Heating (Gas)

high Gas dryer tumbles but the burner doesn't light. Clothes come out warm but not hot.
⚠️ UNPLUG THE DRYER. GAS DRYERS: if you smell gas, DO NOT operate the dryer. Turn off the gas supply and ventilate. Call a professional if the smell persists.
View 6 steps
  1. 1. Verify the gas supply valve is fully open. The valve should be parallel to the pipe when open → Gas valve parallel to pipe (open)
  2. 2. Check the igniter (glow bar or coil). With the dryer in a heated cycle, the igniter should glow orange within 2-3 minutes. If it doesn't glow, the igniter is open or the control board isn't sending power to it → Igniter glows orange
  3. 3. If the igniter glows but the burner doesn't light, check the gas solenoid valve. The solenoid should click when the igniter reaches temperature. If it doesn't click, the solenoid is stuck or the control board isn't sending the signal → Solenoid clicks, gas flows to burner
  4. 4. If the solenoid clicks but no flame, check the gas pressure at the solenoid inlet. Should be 3.5-7.0 inches of water column. Low pressure = blockage in the gas line or a partially closed valve → 3.5-7.0 in WC gas pressure
  5. 5. If the igniter doesn't glow, measure the resistance. Glow bar igniters should read 20-80Ω. Open (OL) = replace. Also check for 120V at the igniter during the heat cycle. No voltage = control board issue → Igniter resistance in spec, 120V present
  6. 6. If the flame lights but goes out immediately, check the flame sensor (thermocouple or D flame sensor). The sensor must detect the flame to keep the gas solenoid energized. A dirty or failing sensor causes the flame to shut off → Flame stays lit, sensor detects flame
Common parts: Igniter (glow bar) ($15-30) · Gas solenoid valve ($30-60) · Flame sensor ($15-25) · Gas valve assembly ($50-100)

🔧 Microwave (2 repairs)

Microwave Not Heating

high Microwave runs (turntable spins, lights on, timer counts down) but food doesn't heat.
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Microwave Not Heating

high Microwave runs (turntable spins, light comes on) but food doesn't get hot.
⚠️ ⚠️ ⚠️ LETHAL HAZARD: Microwave ovens contain a high-voltage capacitor (1μF/2000V) that can store a lethal charge even when unplugged. DISCONNECT POWER AND DISCHARGE THE CAPACITOR BEFORE OPENING THE HOUSING. Use a 1kΩ/50W resistor to bleed the cap. Never touch the capacitor terminals with bare hands.
View 6 steps
  1. 1. ⚠️ DISCONNECT POWER AND DISCHARGE THE HIGH-VOLTAGE CAPACITOR. Remove the outer cover (usually 6-8 screws around the edge). Locate the large cylindrical capacitor (blue or black, ~1μF). Using a 1kΩ resistor, discharge the capacitor by touching both leads of the resistor across the cap terminals. Verify with a multimeter — should read 0V → Capacitor discharged, 0V reading
  2. 2. Check the magnetron filament. Measure resistance between the two filament pins (the two small pins at the base of the magnetron). Should read 0.5-1Ω. Open (OL) = magnetron failed, replace it → 0.5-1Ω filament resistance
  3. 3. If the magnetron tests good, check the high-voltage diode (rectifier). It's a small cylindrical component near the magnetron. Test with a multimeter in diode mode — should show continuity in one direction only. If it shows continuity in both directions or neither, replace it → One-way continuity (diode function)
  4. 4. Check the high-voltage transformer secondary winding. Measure resistance between the secondary terminals. Should be a few ohms. Open = transformer failed, replace it → Low resistance (few ohms) through secondary
  5. 5. Check the high-voltage capacitor (the one you just discharged). Measure its capacitance with a capacitor meter. Should be 1μF ± 10%. If it's significantly out of spec, replace it → 1μF ± 10%
  6. 6. If all high-voltage components test good, check the turntable motor and the door switches. A broken door switch can prevent the magnetron from receiving power. Test each door switch for continuity when the door is closed → All door switches show continuity when closed
Common parts: Magnetron ($30-60) · High-voltage diode ($5-15) · High-voltage transformer ($40-80) · High-voltage capacitor ($10-20) · Door switch ($5-15 each)

🔧 Oven (1 repairs)

Oven Not Heating / Uneven Heating

medium Oven takes forever to reach temperature or heats unevenly (hot spots, cold spots).
⚠️ UNPLUG THE OVEN. Electric ovens: the heating elements can get extremely hot — let them cool before touching. Gas ovens: if you smell gas, shut off the supply.
View 6 steps
  1. 1. Check the oven temperature sensor (NTC thermistor). It's a small probe in the back wall of the oven cavity. Measure resistance at room temperature — should be 10kΩ ± 10%. If out of spec, replace the sensor. A failing sensor causes the oven to overshoot or undershoot temperature → 10kΩ ± 10% at room temp
  2. 2. Check the heating element. Electric ovens have a bake element (bottom) and a broil element (top). Measure the bake element resistance — should be 10-30Ω. Open (OL) = replace. Look for visible cracks or bubbling on the element surface → 10-30Ω, no visible damage
  3. 3. If the element tests good, check the fan motor (convection fan). The fan should be spinning freely. If it's seized or making noise, replace it. A non-spinning fan causes uneven heating → Fan spins freely, no noise
  4. 4. Check the door gasket/seal. A worn or damaged door gasket lets heat escape, causing the oven to take longer to reach temperature and to lose heat during cooking. Inspect the gasket for cracks, tears, or flattening → Gasket intact, no heat escaping
  5. 5. If the oven is a gas model: check the bake burner for clogs. Remove the burner and clear any food debris from the ports. A partially clogged burner causes uneven heating → All burner ports clear
  6. 6. If all components check out, the control board may be miscalibrated. Perform a temperature calibration (if the model supports it) or have the oven professionally calibrated → Oven reaches and maintains set temperature
Common parts: Temperature sensor (NTC) ($15-30) · Bake element ($30-60) · Broil element ($30-60) · Convection fan motor ($20-40) · Door gasket ($30-60)

🔧 Oven/range (2 repairs)

Oven Not Heating

high Oven won't heat up. Bake or broil elements stay cold. Gas oven: no flame or igniter won't glow.
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Range Burner Won't Heat

medium Electric or gas cooktop burner won't heat. Other burners work normally.
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🔧 Refrigerator (7 repairs)

Refrigerator Not Cooling

critical Refrigerator is warm but freezer may still work. Compressor may be running but no cooling, or compressor not running at
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Ice Maker Not Making Ice

medium Ice maker stopped producing ice. May still dispense water. Ice maker may hum or not eject ice.
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Refrigerator Leaking Water

medium Water leaking inside fridge or pooling under refrigerator. May be from freezer defrost cycle.
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Refrigerator Too Cold / Freezing Food

medium Food in refrigerator compartment is freezing. Temperature won't regulate properly.
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Refrigerator Water Dispenser Not Working

medium Water dispenser produces no water or very slow flow. Ice maker may still work.
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Refrigerator Making Loud Noise

medium Loud buzzing, clicking, rattling, or humming from refrigerator. Compressor or fans may be failing.
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Refrigerator Not Cooling

critical Refrigerator compartment is warm or not cooling at all. Food is spoiling.
⚠️ UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR. If you smell gas or see oil on the compressor, there's a refrigerant leak — call a professional. Do NOT open the refrigeration system yourself.
View 7 steps
  1. 1. Verify the refrigerator is receiving power. Check the outlet with a multimeter (should be 120V). Check the compressor relay — it should click when the compressor starts → 120V at outlet, relay clicks
  2. 2. Check the condenser coil (at the back or bottom of the fridge). It should be clean and free of dust. A dirty condenser coil restricts airflow and causes the compressor to overheat and shut down. Clean with a brush or vacuum → Condenser coil clean, good airflow
  3. 3. Check the evaporator fan motor (inside the freezer compartment, behind the rear panel). It should be spinning. If it's not, the freezer is iced over and the fan is blocked, or the motor is failing. A non-spinning evaporator fan = no cooling in the fridge compartment → Evaporator fan spinning
  4. 4. Check for ice buildup on the evaporator coils. If there's more than 1/4 inch of ice, the defrost system is failing. The defrost heater, defrost thermostat, or defrost timer is not cycling the defrost cycle → No more than 1/4 inch ice on evaporator
  5. 5. If the evaporator is iced over, check the defrost heater. Measure resistance — should be 20-30Ω. Open (OL) = replace. Also check the defrost thermostat (should have continuity when cold, open when warm) → Defrost heater 20-30Ω, thermostat functional
  6. 6. If the defrost system checks out, check the compressor. It should be running (vibrating, warm to the touch). If the compressor isn't running, check the start relay and overload protector. A failed start relay is the #1 compressor no-start cause → Compressor running, relay clicking
  7. 7. If the compressor runs but the fridge isn't cooling, the refrigerant charge may be low (leak). You'll feel warm air at the condenser but not cold air at the evaporator. This requires a professional to recharge the system → Cold air at evaporator, warm at condenser
Common parts: Start relay ($10-20) · Overload protector ($5-15) · Evaporator fan motor ($30-60) · Defrost heater ($20-40) · Defrost thermostat ($10-20) · Compressor ($150-300)

🔧 Washer (9 repairs)

Washer Won't Spin

high Washing machine fills and agitates but won't spin or spins slowly, leaving clothes soaking wet.
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Washer Won't Drain

high Washing machine completes cycle but water remains in tub. May show error codes on digital displays.
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Washer Won't Start

high Pressing start button does nothing. No lights, no sounds, completely dead or intermittent.
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Washer Leaking Water

high Water leaking from washing machine during fill, wash, or drain cycles. Puddles around or under machine.
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Washer Making Loud Noise

medium Loud banging, grinding, or squealing during wash or spin cycles. May vibrate excessively.
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Washer Won't Spin (Top-Load)

high Washing machine fills and agitates but won't spin or spins slowly, leaving clothes soaking wet.
⚠️ UNPLUG THE WASHER BEFORE STARTING. Top-load washers store water in the tub — have towels ready.
View 7 steps
  1. 1. Unplug the washer and pull it away from the wall → Washer accessible from all sides
  2. 2. Check the drive belt. The belt should be tight enough to have 1/2 inch of deflection at the midpoint between the motor pulley and transmission pulley. A loose belt is the #1 cause of no-spin → Belt tension: 1/2 inch deflection
  3. 3. If the belt is loose, adjust the motor mounting bolts to tighten it. If the belt is cracked, glazed, or missing, replace it. Match the belt size (e.g., 4L210, 5M220) → Belt properly tensioned or replaced
  4. 4. Check the motor coupler (plastic coupling between motor and transmission). Remove the transmission coupling and inspect it. If it's cracked, sheared, or separated from the motor shaft, replace it → Coupler intact, not cracked or sheared
  5. 5. If the coupler is intact, check the transmission. With the belt removed, try to turn the transmission input shaft by hand. It should rotate freely with slight resistance. If it's seized or grinds, the transmission is worn → Transmission rotates freely
  6. 6. Check the lid switch. With the lid closed, listen for the click. Test the switch with a multimeter — should show continuity when lid is closed. If open, replace the lid switch → Lid switch shows continuity when closed
  7. 7. If all mechanical components check out, the motor windings may be failing. Listen for the motor humming during the spin cycle. If it hums but doesn't spin, the motor is likely seized or has a failed start winding → Motor spins at full speed
Common parts: Drive belt ($15-30) · Motor coupler ($10-20) · Lid switch ($15-25) · Transmission ($150-300)

Washer Won't Spin (Front-Load)

high Front-load washing machine fills and agitates but won't spin or spins slowly.
⚠️ UNPLUG THE WASHER. Front-loaders have a direct-drive motor — no belt to check, but the motor coupling is the #1 failure point.
View 6 steps
  1. 1. Unplug the washer and pull it away from the wall. Remove the top panel (usually 2-3 screws at the back) → Top panel removed, motor visible
  2. 2. Check the motor coupling (between the direct-drive motor and the transmission/tub). If it's cracked, sheared, or separated, the motor spins but the tub doesn't. This is the #1 front-load no-spin cause → Coupling intact, transfers motion
  3. 3. If the coupling is intact, check the motor itself. With the coupling removed, try to turn the motor shaft by hand. It should rotate freely. If seized, the motor is failing → Motor shaft rotates freely
  4. 4. Check the door lock assembly. The door must be locked before the washer will spin. If the lock isn't engaging, the washer won't start the spin cycle. Test the lock switch for continuity → Door lock engages, switch shows continuity
  5. 5. Check the suspension system. Front-loaders have 4 suspension rods (or springs) connecting the tub to the frame. If any are broken or worn, the tub moves excessively and the control board may prevent spinning → All 4 suspension rods intact
  6. 6. Check the inverter board (motor control). If the motor receives power but doesn't spin at the correct speed, the inverter board may be failing. Look for bulging capacitors or burnt components → Inverter board clean, no burnt components
Common parts: Motor coupling ($15-25) · Direct-drive motor ($100-200) · Door lock assembly ($30-50) · Inverter board ($80-150) · Suspension rods ($20-40 (set of 4))

Washer Leaking Water

medium Water leaking from the washer during or after the wash cycle.
⚠️ UNPLUG THE WASHER. Check the area under the washer for water damage and electrical hazards before investigating.
View 6 steps
  1. 1. Determine WHERE the leak is coming from. Common sources: door gasket (front-load), door seal (top-load lid), water inlet hoses, drain hose, tub seal, or pump → Leak source identified
  2. 2. If the leak is at the door gasket (front-load): inspect the gasket for cracks, tears, or debris caught in the fold. Clean the gasket with soapy water. If the gasket is cracked or torn, replace it → Gasket intact, no debris in fold
  3. 3. If the leak is at the water inlet hoses: check the hose connections at the back of the washer. Tighten the hose clamps. If the hoses are cracked or bulging, replace them. Use proper washer hoses, not garden hoses → Hose connections tight, no cracks
  4. 4. If the leak is at the drain hose: check the connection at the pump and at the standpipe. Tighten the clamps. If the hose is cracked, replace it → Drain hose connections tight
  5. 5. If the leak is from the tub area: the tub-to-outer-tub seal (bellows seal) may be failing. This is common in 7+ year old front-loaders. Inspect the seal for cracks or deformation. A leaking bellows seal requires a seal replacement (moderate repair) → Bellows seal intact, no cracks
  6. 6. If the leak is from the pump area: the drain pump housing may be cracked or the pump O-ring may be worn. Inspect the pump housing and O-ring. Replace the O-ring (cheap) or the pump assembly (if housing is cracked) → Pump housing intact, O-ring seated
Common parts: Door gasket (front-load) ($30-60) · Water inlet hoses ($10-20 each) · Drain hose ($10-20) · Bellows seal (tub seal) ($40-80) · Pump O-ring ($5-10)

Washer Making Loud Noise During Spin

medium Loud banging, grinding, or squealing noise during the spin cycle.
⚠️ UNPLUG THE WASHER. Stop the cycle immediately if you hear grinding — continued operation can damage the transmission or bearings.
View 6 steps
  1. 1. Determine the type of noise. BANGING = unbalanced load or loose item. GRINDING = bearing or transmission wear. SQUEALING = belt or motor issue. RUMBLY = bearing wear → Noise type identified
  2. 2. If BANGING: check for a foreign object (coin, button, small sock) caught between the inner and outer tub. Remove the top panel and inspect the drum. Also check the counterweight (heavy ring around the tub) for cracks or looseness → No foreign objects, counterweight secure
  3. 3. If GRINDING: the tub bearings are likely worn. This is confirmed by lifting the tub by hand — if it has play or grinds, the bearings are bad. Bearing replacement is a major repair (requires pulling the tub) → Tub rotates smoothly, no play or grinding
  4. 4. If SQUEALING: check the drive belt. A worn or glazed belt squeals. Replace the belt. Also check the motor pulley for burrs or wear — a worn pulley causes belt noise → Belt quiet, pulley smooth
  5. 5. If RUMBLY: the suspension system may be worn. Check the shock absorbers (dampers) on the tub. If they're corroded, leaking, or not damping properly, replace them. Worn dampers cause the tub to bounce during spin → Dampers intact, not leaking
  6. 6. If the noise persists after checking all of the above, the transmission may be failing. A worn transmission makes grinding noises and eventually seizes. Transmission replacement is a major repair → Transmission rotates smoothly, no grinding
Common parts: Tub bearing set ($50-100) · Drive belt ($15-30) · Motor pulley ($15-30) · Shock absorbers (dampers) ($20-40 (set)) · Transmission ($150-300)

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