Your oven reads 350 but the food isn't cooking. The temperature light comes on, the fan runs, but the temperature never reaches where you set it. This is one of the most common kitchen appliance failures, and in most cases the fix is a $20-60 part. Here are the 7 most common causes.
The bake element is the long, wavy heating coil at the bottom of the oven cavity. It burns out from thermal cycling — every time it heats and cools, the metal fatigues a little more.
Test: Set the oven to 350. After 5 minutes, look at the bake element. A healthy element glows bright orange. If it's dark or only part of it glows, it's failed.
Fix: Replace the bake element ($20-50). Disconnect power. Remove the oven rack. Unplug the element. Replace. Most elements use a ceramic terminal that snaps into the wall.
If the bake element works but the broil (top) element doesn't, the broil element is likely burned out. The broil element is the straight coil at the top of the oven cavity.
Test: Turn on the broil function. After 2-3 minutes, look at the broil element. It should glow red-orange. If it's dark, it's failed.
Fix: Replace the broil element ($15-40). Remove the oven rack and the broil element housing. Unplug and replace.
The thermostat tells the heating element when to turn on and off. If it's stuck open, the element never gets power. If it's stuck closed, the element runs continuously and the oven overheats.
Test: Set the oven to 350. If the element never turns on, the thermostat may be stuck open. If the element runs continuously and the oven reads 500+, the thermostat is stuck closed. A multimeter can test the thermostat for continuity.
Fix: Replace the thermostat ($20-40). It's usually behind the back panel or under the control console. Match the model number exactly.
Gas ovens use a glow bar igniter to light the bake burner. The igniter glows until the gas valve opens. If the igniter is cracked or has high resistance, it won't glow hot enough to open the gas valve.
Test: Turn the oven on. Watch the igniter (the small glow bar near the bottom of the oven). It should glow cherry-red within 2-3 minutes. If it doesn't glow, or glows but the burner doesn't light, the igniter or gas valve is bad.
Fix: Replace the igniter ($15-30). Unplug the igniter. Replace. If the igniter glows but the burner doesn't light, the gas valve is the problem ($60-120).
The gas valve opens to let gas flow to the burners when the igniter signals it. If the valve solenoid is faulty, it won't open even when the igniter is working.
Test: If the igniter glows correctly but the burner doesn't light, the gas valve is the likely culprit. A tech can test the solenoid resistance.
Fix: Replace the gas valve ($60-120). This is a professional repair in most cases — it involves disconnecting the gas line.
The control board sends the signal to the thermostat and the heating element. If the board is faulty, it may not send the heat signal. This is more common after a power surge.
Test: If the oven displays the temperature but the element never turns on, and the thermostat tests good, the control board may be failing. A tech can test the board's output.
Fix: Replace the control board ($80-200). Match the model number exactly.
Some ovens have a door switch that cuts power to the heating element when the door is open. If the switch is faulty, the oven thinks the door is open and won't heat.
Test: Close the oven door firmly. If the oven starts heating, the door switch is likely the problem. Check that the door latch engages properly.
Fix: Adjust the door latch or replace the door switch ($15-30).