A refrigerator that's not cooling is the most common appliance repair call. The problem can be as simple as a clogged condenser coil or as complex as a refrigerant leak. Here are the 8 most common causes, in order of likelihood.
The condenser coil (at the back or bottom of the fridge) needs to release heat. When it's clogged with dust and lint, the compressor can't reject heat efficiently, and the fridge warms up.
Fix: Unplug the fridge. Pull it away from the wall. Vacuum or brush the condenser coil. Clean the area behind and below the fridge. Plug back in and wait 12 hours. This is a free fix that solves 25% of "fridge not cooling" calls.
The condenser fan blows air across the condenser coil. When it fails, the compressor overheats and the fridge warms up. The compressor may run constantly and be very hot to the touch.
Test: Listen for the fan running. Open the back panel (or bottom panel on some models). Spin the fan blade by hand — it should turn freely. Unplug the fan motor and check for continuity (should read 5-100 ohms).
Fix: Replace the condenser fan motor ($25-60).
The evaporator fan (behind the back panel of the freezer) blows air over the evaporator coil and into the compartments. When it fails, the freezer gets very cold but the fridge section warms up. Frost builds up on the evaporator coil.
Test: Open the freezer and look at the back panel. You should hear the fan running when the compressor is on. If you hear a grinding or clicking noise, the fan is stuck. Unplug the fan motor and check for continuity.
Fix: Replace the evaporator fan motor ($25-60). Clear any ice that's blocking the fan.
The defrost system (heater, thermostat, timer, or control board) melts frost buildup on the evaporator coil. When it fails, frost builds up and blocks airflow. The freezer gets very cold, the fridge section warms up, and the evaporator coil is covered in ice.
Diagnosis: Remove the back panel of the freezer. If the evaporator coil is covered in ice, the defrost system has failed.
Test each component:
If the refrigerant leaks out of the system, the compressor runs but there's not enough refrigerant to cool the fridge. The compressor runs constantly, the suction line is warm (not cold), and there's no frost on the evaporator coil.
Diagnosis: The compressor runs continuously. The suction line (the larger copper line going into the evaporator) is warm, not cold. There's no frost on the evaporator coil. The condenser coil is not hot.
Fix: This requires a professional with a manifold gauge set and refrigerant. Find the leak, repair it, evacuate the system, and recharge. Cost: $300-800.
The compressor is the heart of the refrigeration system. When it fails, the fridge doesn't cool at all. The compressor may be silent (not running), humming (locked rotor), or making a clicking sound (trying to start).
Test: Listen for the compressor running. Feel the compressor can — it should be warm/hot when running. Unplug the compressor harness and test the windings (C-R, C-S, R-S). Any open circuit = replace compressor. Test the start relay and start capacitor BEFORE condemning the compressor.
Fix: Replace the start relay ($10-30) or start capacitor ($15-40) first. If those test good, the compressor is the problem. Replace compressor: $150-400.
Some fridges use a fan to blow cold air from the freezer into the fridge section. If the air damper is stuck closed or the fan in the fridge section is broken, cold air can't reach the fridge.
Diagnosis: The freezer is cold but the fridge section is warm. Check the air damper (a flap between the freezer and fridge). It should open and close freely. Check the fan in the fridge section.
If the door gasket is cracked, torn, or not sealing properly, warm air enters the fridge and the compressor runs constantly trying to keep up. The fridge may cool slowly or not at all.
Test: Close the door on a dollar bill. If you can pull the bill out easily, the gasket isn't sealing. Check for cracks, tears, or deformation.
Fix: Replace the door gasket ($30-80).
For step-by-step repair procedures, see our Refrigerator Repair Guide.
For component identification and test procedures, see our Component Reference.